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Underwear – the history of

Underwear – the history of

Underwear has ancient roots, we can say that the use of underwear began in Egypt around 1550 B.C. In fact, the first evidence found of undergarments is relatet to this period. The Egyptians, even though they produced wool and cotton, prefered to use linen, for their undergarments because to them linen had a religious significance. With this fiber, they created a very lightweight and transparent fabric, which they wore close to the body. The poor men’s garment was called pano. It was a kind of loincloth, made by a simple rectangle of fabric wrapped around the hips. Instead, the upper class, for example pharaons, princes and military commanders used to wear a different garment called schentis. The principal charateristic of this garment was the detailed pleating.

the history of underwear(pano)          the history of underwear(schentis)

In the following centuries, the Sumerian and Babylonian Assyrian cultures (1100 to 600 B. C.) used to wear just a simple tunic called Kandis. This was worn directly against the skin without any other sub layer. We have to wait until the fifth century B.C. before we find anything resembling underwear as we know it today. The Persians, in fact used anaxyrides, which were close fitting along the legs and often worn together with a bodice which covered the arms, over these garments they wore a tunic.

the history of underwear(anaxyrides)

From the Romans to the Middle Ages

The Roman civilazation summarizes all of the previos cultures. Their garments consisted of tunics and capes, but here are the beginnings of garments that we can define as underwear. The Romans wore an inner or undertunic called a subucula and also a subligaculum, this garment could be considered the first version of our modern day slip or boxers. It was basically a loincloth, it consisited of a piece of fabric which passed between the thighs and was fastened at the waist with string. It was worn by both men and woman and in particular  it was part of the dress of gladiators and athletes.

the history of underwear(subligaculum)

When the Roman Empire divided into two parts, the Western empire with Rome as its capital and the Eastern empire with its capital Byzantium (Constantinopole) we witnessed the fall of the first and the flourishing of the second for more that a millennium. In this period the Byzantium garments , which were in fact similar to the romans but richer in their decoration, were fashionable, underwear played a minor role with a type of longjohns  and the subligaculum worn under tunics.

The Middle Ages

Towards the end on the eighth century, half way through the middles ages, their was an historical turning point, The Holy Roman Empire was restored thanks to the French King Charlemagne. The Latin and the German populations were united. But in Italy this created the first political divide. There were many territorities dominated by the Lombards and the Byzantines. Due to the fact that they resisted the Barbaric invasion, they considered themselves against Charlemagne. In this period there are traces of the use of subligaculum and longjohns by the Lombards. The longjohns evolved and by now were tighter and often with a sole under the foot to fulfill the function of footwear. The Goths (originally from East Germany) were the first to use nightshirts and garments which covered the genital area.

(IX century)

The Renaissance

In the XVI century people began to use garments which we can recognise as underwear. Catherine de’ Medici started to use an article of clothing which we can consider to be the first knickers. These were worn under dresses and remained in fashion for about 100 years. Towards the end of XVII century as they became unpopular with the general public as they were now considered prostitutes clothing.

Underwear as we know it

It is only in the XIX century, that the story of underwear really begins. Knickers once again became a part of women wardrobe. These knickers were a type of longjohns and they were known as tubes of decency and it was forbidden to name them in public. Subsequently the women’s underwear began to be decorated with lace and embroidery and high quality fabrics were used. At the end of this century, knickers became shorter and shorter and more erotic. We can see an example of this in the famous Can can dance, where the dancers show them to the public.

can can(can can)

Modern time

From about 1920, knickers became smaller and smaller and the first bra was created. Men wore boxers made in cotton fabric; around 1940 the first men’s slip were created. In the 1960’s we can see the concept of modern underwear; and big industrial production started. The underwear became fashionable and trendy, often somthing to be shown; we can consider it a fashion under the dress.

 

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Title of yarn

Title of yarn

What is the title of yarn? It is the size of the dimension of the thread, that determines the thickness and consequently the quality of the fiber. Logically it shoud be the size of the diameter of the thread, but this is only possible for metal threads which are not deformable and have a constant section. So, how can we detrmine the diameter of a deformable and non constant section thread? Simple: we can use units that are easy to measure such as the length and weight. We can proceed in two ways: weight per lenght unit or viceversa; length per unit of weight; this type of measurement is called title.

measurement of yarn(Yarn)

Obviously, one of the two units has to be fixed, meanwhile the other one is variable. let’s get into the specifics; if it’s considered as a title, the weight relates to a fixed length, it is clear that the weight increases as the diameter of yarn increases; so the bigger the title the larger the thread diameter. (for example, 1000 yards of sewing machine thread is lighter than 1000 yards of rope). Viceversa, if we use as a title the length necessary to reach a certain weight, it’s obvious that the lenght increases when the thread diameter decreases. Consequently, the higher the title the thinner the thread ( to get one pound weight we need more sewing machine thread than rope.)

Consequently, the title of yarn is a number that indicates the thickness, in proportion to the thread section. There are two fondamental criteria for the measurement of yarn: direct and indirect. In the direct system, the title is proportional to the size of thread.

measurement of yarn(Machine to determine the length and the weight of the yarn)

how to determine the title of yarn

Direct title 

1 Tex = 1 gram each km of yarn

1 Decitex (dtex) = 1 gram each 10 km of yarn (submultiple of Tex)

Denier (Td o den) = 1 gram each 9 km of Yarn

1 (Ts) = 1 pound each 14.400 Yard of yarn.

Indirect title or number 

Nm: indicates how many skein of yarn (1000 metres long) there are in 1 kg; it’s used for wool.

Nk: indicates how many metres of yarn there are in 1 kg.; it’s used for yarn and wool waste

Ne: indicates how many skein of yarn (840 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Nl:  indicates how many skein of yarn (300 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Nw: indicates how many skein of yarn (560 yards) there are in 1 pound.

Ns: indicates how many skein of yarn (256 yards) there are in 1 pound

Insights

Wikipedia

 

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Dyeing of threads

 The history of dyeing

The  dyeing of fibers or fabric is practice as old as the world. From when man first appeared on earth he has tried to use natural colours; from flowers, plants and other organic substances to dye or colour his belongings. The first findings of this process, date from Neolithic times, obviously the colours used in that period were limited to the surrounding nature. For example the ancient Egyptians  used spices such as cumin, henna and saffron to dye their fabrics. The Phoenicians where known for were producing a purple dye from a sea snail called the spiny dye-murex. All areas of the world were developing different techniques and colours. From each we can identify the zone of origin, you need only to think of batik from India or the vibrant colours of  the Maya Inca Aztecs made using the cochineal or tree roots

dyeing of threads

With the passing centuries , thanks to new discoveries and the beginning of commercial trade the dyeing process continued to improve. In Florence many labour corporations were formed including one of Dyers. This corporation enabled the dyers to create rules to protect and regularize their craft. Each dyer specialised in one colour of which only he had the knowledge to reproduce. The discovery of America brought new colours and new techniques. It was only in 1856 when William Henry Perkin, an English chemist accidently discovered that you could create the colour mauve from aniline that chemicals where be used to create colours often in favour of natural ingredients.

dyeing of threads(William Henry Perkin)

Dyeing Today

The dyeing of thread, is a long cycle of work. It transforms the raw thread into a coloured one, thanks to the use of chemical substances. It is very important that the colour prenetrates deeply into the fiber to produce a solid and lasting colour. The first step of the cycle is to remove the impurities; these if kept may produce a diversity in the final colour. Then the spools of thead are put into special autoclaves, after into an alkaline bath which also contains the colouring substances. These substances, must be able to reach the center of the fiber, to give uniformity and activate the chemical process necessary to fix the colour.  The last two phrases are: the washing which eliminates the excess colour and the oxidation which fixes the colour permantly and makes it insoluble in water.

dyeing of threads(Autoclavi)

This process can last up to 12 hours and at the end the spools are dried in a spin dryer which eliminates the bulk of the water. To ensure the right degree of humidity the spools  are treated with jets of air or microwaves. In the next stage, the threads are checked to control the colour is uniform and water resistant. Garments produced with thread  which has been dyed have a much better stability of colour than  garments produced with a dyed fabric. Today the dying of the fabric is a widely used process, the technique is fast and economical but the final results are inferior in terms of colour solidarity and duration.

The philosophy

Our company, keeps your health in mind; we produce top quality garments which are worn close to the skin. Our aim is to protect your body, because many of our garments are in contact with the skin we use only fabric made with dyed thread. In addition to the fact that this type of process produces the highest quality dying, our threads are dyed in Italy in compliance with the relevant laws. Italian law is very strict. In fact forbids the use many colouring and chemical substances. For example formaldehyde which has been shown to be very polluting and carcinogenic.

 

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The pattern

The pattern – what’s it for?

The pattern is the base for creating a garment. Whether it’s a dress or a pair of boxers, this item is necessary to obtain the correct sizing and shaping of the garment. Above all these paper patterns are crucial to ensuring the precise cut of the fabric and consequently, the perfect sewing of the garment.

What is a pattern? It is a flat drawing of a three-dimentional shape. The fact that the fabric is flat, means  we need a design that we can use in this dimension. The design must bear in mind many factors; for exampe a sleeve not only covers the arm but also part of the shoulder, it must be comfortable, furthermore it must have enough room to allow the arm to move freely. For this reason once it is sewn it must have the correct anatomical shape. Also the front and back of the garment must be tailored to follow our body shape; chest, waist, hips.

the pattern(sleeve)

How to make a paper pattern

The pattern making starts with the taking of accurate  physical measurements such as the chest, the shoulders and the hips. Using these measurements a paper pattern is produced. It is a geometric design because it is based on precise calculations and its proportions are governed by the length and width of the original measurements. Consequently a pattern can be created using individual client mesaurements or as in the case of underwear the standard size guide. These basic measurements are then developed and proportionated using a set square. This instrument means we can avoid a myraid of calculations and enables us to speed up the work.

the pattern set squares(set squares)

Above all the pattern must allow for many variables. The fabric can be either rigid or elastic, the sewing can “eat” up to one centimeter of the fabric and reference notches must be postioned accurately on each piece in order to match precisely. Furthermore the center and the grain line are always marked, similary the hem allowance and the button positions. In the tailoring world there are also different ways to make an original pattern, for instance Moulage. it consists of draping muslin fabric around a mannequin; it’s a very skilled and difficult technique.

 moulage(Moulage)

The history

The first pattern was made around 1400. In this period they started to produce clothing in a more accurate way, using standard sizing and fitting. In the previous era, clothes were used  as a symbol of your social standing The richest people wore fitted bespoke clothing, whilst the poor wore very simple shapeless tunics.

the pattern in1400(Pattern from 1400)

Today, the classic paper pattern has been digitized using the CAD system. As a result of using the computer, with its greater precision and  easier storage when combined with the fact that it can be automatically connected to the cutting procedure, the use of the paper pattern has almost been eliminated . Another advantage of this system is to have always on hand all the models with the possibility to modify these by video thus creating new ones. Today every garment produced in our company is made using CAD, although we have conserved in our archives all of the historic paper patterns made since the company was founded in 1977.

the pattern cad(CAD)

 

 

 

 

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Sewing machine

The history of the sewing machine

The first news  we have about the basic sewing machine is in the year 1755, when  the german inventor Karl Friedrich Wiesenthal was the first person to have the idea of a mechinical sewing system. In 1790 an Englishman Thomas Saint made something very similar but it started with a different concept, his machine used the more complicated chain stitching process.

Even if Germany and England were the countries where the first prototypes of something able to sew mechanically were built, we are still  far away from the concept of the modern sewing machine. The first fully  functioning machine was invented in 1829 by a french tailor, Barthélemy Thimonnier. His machine used a hooked needle and one thread creating a chain stitch, like Thomas Saint’s project. In 1830, with the help of the engineer  Auguste Ferrand who did the technical drawings  Thimonnier opened the first machined based clothing manufacturing company after gaining the successful patent.

Mass production

In 1832 Walter Hunt, an American inventor created the first lockstitch sewing machine, but he didn’t bother to patent it because he was worried it would cause mass unemployment. In 1844 the English inventor John Fisher designed the first machine which combined all the former ideas. This project was later improved on and built by Isaac Merritt Singer and Elias Howe, who also invented the zip closure.

 

sewing machine(Elias Howe project)sewing machine howe(Elias Howe)

In this period a small production of sewing machines started. In 1851 Singer invented the first machine with a horizontal arm and a pressure foot this is a system that keeps the fabric stable under the needle. These sewing machines were hand operated and they were quite difficult to use, for this reason the foot pedal was introduced later to free the hands. Many years later, the Singer company built the first machine with an electric motor and in 1975 it produced the first electronic machine in the world (Athena 2000).

sewing machine Isaac Merritt Singer(Isaac Merritt Singer)  sewing machine singer(Singer machine)

In 1862 in Germany, Georg Michael Pfaff a brass instrument maker, finally managed  to construct  his first sewing machine. After seeing one at a fair many years earlier being completely fascinated by this new object, he decided to stop production of the musical instruments and dedicate himself entirely to this new project.

sewing machine Pfaff(Georg Michael Pfaff)sewing machine pfaff(Pfaff machine)

Sewing machines in Italy

In Italy the first company that produced machines in this sector was Filotecnica Salmoiraghi in 1877. This distinguished brand is well known for the great quality of its products and also for its numerous innovations. For example it was the first company to produce a machine that could make buttonholes. Around 1920 another Italian company Virginio Rimoldi di Milano started to make the first sergers. These machines could cut the fabric whilist sewing. This was a new step for the industrial garment production, in fact, this new machine whilist decreasing the production time was also more accurate.

macchina da cucire rimoldi(serger Rimoldi)

The best known brand, which is in fact still active today in the sewing sector, is without a doubt Necchi. Vittorio Necchi, wanted to make a domestic sewing machine using for production his familys steel works in Pavia. He started with the  model “BD” and then followed up with the innovative “BU” a machine which was able to zig-zag. Making it, in 1939, one of the first machines capable of embroidery. Finally the “BF” and in 1950 the“Supernova” machines which are still today at the technological forefront. In 1956, the “Mirella” designed by Marcello Nizzoli, in addition to winning  various awards for its technical qualities was placed in the MOMA museum in New York for its innovative design.

macchina da cucire necchi(Necchi Mirella)

Sewing machines nowdays

Today, the modern machines, differ only in the use of electronics and a few pneumatically operated details which help to speed up the productivity. In our company we use a lot of modern machines but also many dated machines which have the ability to sew at the highest quality.

macchina da cucire juki

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Hand linking

Hand linking

The term hand linking indicates a phase of work in the textile world and is considered synonymous with high quality. This process is often used in the socks world to link the heel and the front part of the sock often called the “toe”.

The process of hand linking

Practically speaking, hand linking is the process used to attach the heel and the toe of the sock. It is very important not to overlap the fabric as this could cause irritation on the skin when worn. Likewise it is crucial not to make any holes in the fabric which could lead to laddering. A matter of fact only one missed stitch in this whole process can ruin the sock. At the end of the hand linking the result should be a completely seam free sock, in fact the appearance is that of a single piece.

Hand linking

The advantages

What are the great advantages of this long and delicate process? Certainly there is absolutely no possibility of any rubbing or irritation during use as there is in effect no join.  The seamless linking and the high quality of the fabric ensures maximum comfort.

The added value

To teach an operator the complete process of hand linking you need many years; during this long apprenticeship period inevitably many pairs of socks will be ruined. Finally the production increases to 25/30 dozens a day; if we compare this final yield to the 120 dozens produced daily by simply machine sewing the seams you can see immediately why there is a difference in both quality and price between the hand linked and the machine stitched socks. As a result of this complicated process, the duration and the comfort of hand linked socks is highly superior , furthermore our socks have both the heel and the toe re-enforced in natural fibers.

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Care of cashmere

Care of cashmere

For the best care of cashmere we recommend either hand washing or using the delicate cycle on the washing machine; cashmere loves water.

Hand washing tips

Always use warm water and a specialised detergent; let the garment soak for about 15 minutes. Obviously avoid rubbing or twisting the garment. Finally rinse with cold water.

 

care of cashmere

Machine Washing – care of cashmere

Choose  the delicate cycle on the machine, this is a specialised program that washes wollen garments at a temperature of 30°, temeratures lower than 30° are useless because the dirt will not dissolve.

Attention!

At tempertures higher than 30° you risk ruining the fibers; always use small amounts of the specialised detergent and use the lowest spin cycle, lay the garment flat to dry; top tip: we recommend using a towel to remove the excess water.

Ironing and storage – care of cashmere

If the washing instructions have been correctly followed it should not be necessary to iron the garment; our advice for the best storage of cashmere items is to keep them inside out and at a low room temperature; this will avoid damaging the fibers, if you want to use steam keep it at a distance of 5 cm from the garment.

Top tips: store the garment inside out, protect it with a cotton cloth / bag  and if you must iron use a very low temeprature

Characteristics

The first time you wear your cashmere garment it is possible that it do something we call “pilling”; this is the formation of small irregular balls of cashmere,  known as pills; these pills are caused by rubbing and are non considered a sign of inferior quality cashmere but rather a result of wear. In fact after two or three washes the excess fluff will disappear and the fibers will re appear in all their original beauty; if is possible to manually remove these “pills” with the help of a soft brush or specialised comb.

Frequent washing is not a problem as cashmere loves water;  the Hircus goats ( from whom we collect the fibers) live in difficult conditions, in the open air often with a lot of rain; when they are wet the fibers get soft and expand but when they dry, they return to their original state;  following this characteristic your cashmere garment renews itself after every wash.

Conservation

In the warm seasons if not covered cashmere will attract moths, who love this precious fiber; to protect from moths  you can fill a hankerchief with lavender , cloves, mint and cinnamon, place this inside the folded cashmere garment before storing in the wardrobe; it is very important not to hang the cashmere garments but to store them folded.

Top tips: store your cashmere garments in a sealed box or packet; regularly spray your wardrobe with an anti-moths product.

Our cashmere products

T- shirt

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck t-shirt

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

More info

Wikipedia

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Elasticated cotton

aElasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton is a fairly new fabric, made possible by the invention of elasticated microfibers. These  are added to the cotton thread in a ratio of between 4 and 10%. Originally, this material was used only in the production of sports garments. Now it has been utilised in the underwear world, predominantely in garments where a good fit is necessary.

elasticated cotton

The knitting of elasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton is a jersey fabric, which is made using circular knitting machines. At every single feeding point microfiber (Elastane) is added to the cotton thread. The result is a very compact, resistant and smooth fabric.

elasticated cotton machine

Charateristics of elasticated cotton

Elasticated cotton has the ability to stretch in both directions (width and length). It is soft but also resistent. These charateristics make it ideal for the production of boxers and briefs. Furthermore this fabric is fresh and ensures a very good fit. Due to its jersey structure, it has a natural tendency to twist, especially when low quality cotton is used. This twisting is caused when the thread tension and the machine rotation tension are not perfectly aligned.

How we avoid twisting in 4 stages

In order to eliminate this problem, here at Visconti di Angera we use only the highest quality cotton in which it is possible to choose the correct tension for our machines. This tension balance together with the addition of small percentage of Elastane, stabilises the fabric. Additionally to reduce this problem yet more , we use a 30 feeding point machine which has a low production capacity compared to the modern 90 feeding point machines. The lower the number of feeding points the slower the production rate but the higher the quality of the fabric. On top of this we add another stabilising treatment during the dying process, the fourth and final stage to guarantee the stability of the fabric, is a long period of rest before cutting.

Final result

The final resulting fabric is perfect to produce very fresh and durable garments with a perfect fit.

Our products made in elasticated cotton

Boxer

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Wikipedia

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Why use wool

Why use wool all year round

Why use wool? Because wool is an excellent insulator and is a very good shield both from the cold and from the heat. Since ancient times humans have utilized this fiber to protect themselves to the climate. From the coldest areas in Asia to the hottest zones in Africa, wool has always been a common denominator. Just think about the desert population (Tuareg) who wear woollen garments to help withstand the highest temperatures. His choice is not crazy, but is the result of millenary experience that has the roots in the beginning of time; in fact, wool has some charateristics which make it unique, below we can look at these in more detail.

why use wool

The fiber charateristics

If we examine a woollen fiber under the microscope we will discover the resemblance to snakeskin. The external structure is in fact made by overlapping keratin scales , this is a fibrous protein substance, exactly as our hair. Beneath the external structure there is another strong layer, known as bricks and concrete,  because it resembles the structure of a wall. Some types of wool, have a very porous internal center under the outer layers, in this case the fiber is lighter and softer.

why use wool

Wool is the most hygroscopic fiber, in the world, in fact it is able to absorb one third of its weight in vapour, without giving the feeling of being wet; this is because wool is composed of amino acids, which are able to trap the water molecules inside the fiber. When the weather is hot and humid or when a body sweats intensely, wool absorbs the humidity and releases it into the environment. This process in which wool absorbs sweat and transfers it to the outside is called thermoregulation.

In the same way a woollen garment when worn in cold weather, starts to absorb the body’s humidity increasing its own temperature by 2 – 3 degrees; this action delays for some hours the cooling of the fabric, allowing the body to adapt to the new temperature. Wool has a great capacity to absorb vapour but not water, (because water has a bigger molecular structure) so, wool is waterproof. This is due to the lanolin, (which is the natural grease which covers the wool fibers)

Insulation

Thermal insulation of fabric is due to the amount of air trapped between its fibers: the more air the bigger the insulation. The average amount of air trapped in non woollen fabrics is 75% in wool fabrics it increases to 90%. The scales of the wool fiber give it a certain roughness and its interstices increase the surface area enabling the wool to retain a large quanity of air. For this reason sheep remain indifferent to the heat but also to the cold and this explains why the desert people prefer to wear woollen garments. Wool possesses another very important quality it is almost fireproof. It is very difficult to burn and the flame does not spread easily, creating little heat and smoke. This explains why  wool is used to cover furniture in many planes, trains, coaches cinemas and public buildings.

Why use wool in sportswear

Recently, wool has been re-discovered in the world of sportswear, after the market  has been flooded for many years with synthetic fibers. In fact, given its natural characteristics ,wool is the ideal fabric  for garments for those who run or  take part in marathons. Apart from the above-mentioned chararcteric the thermoregulation wool has another strange very positive attribute unlike synthetic fibers it does not retain the smell, very beneficial if you have to wear the garment for a long period of time or consecutive days! Here are the reasons why use wool

Our products

Narrow strap vest

Wide strap vest

Crew neck t- shirt

Crew neck long sleeves

V – neck t-shirt

V – neck long sleeves

Longjohns

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Sanforization

Sanforization – the history

The sanforization process was invented in 1930 by the American Sanford Lockwood Cluett, from whom it takes its name. Cluett was a businessman but also a great inventor, well known above all for this process. In fact he had over 200 patents, including the Cluett paper and the famous sextant a very important navigation instrument. Cluett, also developed agricultural machinery and furthermore he founded Cluett Peabody and Company Inc. in New York, a company which produced shirts.

sextant - sanforization

The process of sanforization

Sanforization is a combined mechanical and thermal process; the machine forces the fabric to shrink in length by bringing the threads closer together, the process consist of a series of operations such as washing, pressing, drying and finally a chemical treatment.

sanforization

This treatment improves the dimentional stability of the fabric, mostly  lengthwise but also slightly in the width. The obective is to keep the fabric stable,  this is achieved  because of the compactment of its fibers , their closeness prevents warping. The Sanforization process is used mainly on woven fabrics; likewise it can  be used on knitted fabrics such as viscose, micromodal and also some lightweight knitted fabrics. In this case, however the results are lower than the woven fabric,  due to the natural elasticity of the knit.

The Results of sanforization

The fabric after the completion of the Sanforization process should not have shrunk by more than 1 %; this result is fundamenatal to guarantee a  perfect fit and even after washing the woven garments should remain stable. This process is used above all for  high quality mens  shirts and classic boxers made in a woven fabric

More info

Wikipedia

Our products

Boxer